Going Dark: Social Media Influencers Are Responsible For Shein’s Success

Shein, a Chinese retailer that has reached cult status through popularity on social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram, has recently hit new targets, overtaking Amazon, Zara and H&M for the first time digitally as the leading US shopping app via the iOS App Store. Estimating record-breaking sales close to $10 billion in 2020, in their 8th consecutive year with over 100% revenue growth, Shein stormed onto the fashion scene as the first contender against giant global corporations. Articles praising its undefeatable climb to the top of the ladder argue that their business model is easily replicable. But with recent progress being made towards halting fast fashion and its unethical production methods, should companies like Shein be supported when they contribute to unsustainable practices?

So, why is the brand so popular? It’s mainly due to its mass consumer appeal, and the sheer amount of clothing on offer. Pages and pages of garments populate the site, with over 1000 products added every day, all sold at dangerously low prices. Some of these include full outfits for £20, dresses for under £10, and general products such as t-shirts sold for as cheap as £1.99. Shipping fees are relatively low considering Shein’s international appeal, with recent giveaways and discounts including free shipping if you spend over 1p. If you thought that fashion sites like Boohoo and Pretty Little Thing were fast, Shein is the veritable bullet train when it comes to creating profit via viral algorithms. The nature of its cheap products encourages people to over-spend - rather than buy a top and trousers for £10, you can spend £250 and completely change your wardrobe. By spending £500, you can change the wardrobes of an entire house of five.

This expansive catalogue is complemented by a detailed log book of social media influencers and A-list celebrities who promote the brand. Shein has worked with well-known musicians such as Katy Perry, Lil Nas X, Nick Jonas, and Tinashe, to name a few. They have also worked with top social media influencers, including TikTok sensation Addison Rae (who has 90 million followers), and this kind of international reach encourages followers to purchase in bulk. Many of Shein’s collaborators have produced videos showcasing hundreds of products at an estimated £1200. As a result of this, consumers have started mimicking their digital favourites, and Shein’s collaboration with influential digital stars has cemented its reputation among Gen-Z shoppers.

However, it’s important to remember that Shein addresses a mass audience, and not just young people. Their connection with the Gen-Z demographic stems specifically from their influencer collaborations, which are exclusively with TikTok/ Instagram stars closely connected with the Gen-Z market. Chris Xu, the founder and entrepreneur of the brand, specialises in SEO (Search Engine Optimization) Marketing, and this has propelled the brand’s popularity since its launch in 2008. They have since purchased many Chinese retailers, expanded into 220 countries, and, according to web analytics platform Similarweb, received the award for most-visited fashion and apparel site in the world.

So what’s the issue here? Shein has a massive impact in encouraging purchase funneling. From a business perspective, you would say it’s the dream, but it is also extremely unsustainable for both brand and consumer. Simply put, the production is too quick to allow for anything to grow organically.

The company itself also takes advantage of the volatile relationship between China and the US. The development of international tariffs were heavily scrutinised under the Trump Administration, and Shein took the opportunity to shop in the US with low/no tariff costs. This is not a reliable business model and, with the company virtually unknown among Chinese consumers due to the highly competitive nature of Asian fashion, it isn’t able to halt production. Shein’s ethos from the beginning of their launch has been to prioritise international trading over organic geographical growth, making products and shipping as cheap as possible rather than catering for those closest to the brand. If and when international trading laws change, Shein may find itself unable to keep up.

Additionally, Shein is not transparent when it comes to their workers’ rights. When asked about the circumstances under which their products are being made, they failed to comment - an answer in itself. Most companies that don’t disclose their workers’ rights have a very limited understanding of what constitutes a healthy working environment, so the silence is alarming. Yet it’s clear that the lack of transparency isn’t a deal-breaker for Shein consumers, who continue to purchase hundreds of garments every month. What happened to being sustainable and ethical?

Kerina Wang on YouTube

Shein’s business model is reliant on a large consumer base and a need for over-consumption. Without these components, fabric waste would overwhelm the company and its production, which might already be the case considering the products are so ridiculously cheap. Their business model is an upgraded version of fast fashion, which is already under fire for its highly destructive environmental and ethical impact. With Shein’s success comes an equal number of protesters who are speaking out against purchasing from the brand, fearful that other fashion and retail competitors will start to copy their speedy production methods and follow suit.

At the beginning of our ‘Going Dark’ series, we discussed the need to stop fast fashion. Recent statistics have shown that many young people no longer support its process, but there are still a lot of people not surveyed that spend thousands on fast fashion products every single month. As a digital community, we need to start re-evaluating influencers and their contributions to the development of fast fashion. Why are celebrities still collaborating with companies that promote over-consumption? There needs to be more accountability in this digital age, especially for those advertising unethical and unsustainable projects. Shein is a prime example of a company that has capitalised off people’s financial needs to produce cheap, speedy, and low-quality items made by workers who are equally financially needy. Eventually, the business model will catch up with itself and produce fashion too fast for consumers to consume, destroying independent businesses in a process that is much more dangerous than it is convenient.